The ADVANTAGES of this technique are:
Fairly inexpensive to create wire frames
Requires a minimum of equipment and materials
Very versatile technique - can produce an unlimited array of styles
Headband integral to the design and should fit correctly
The DISADVANTAGES are:
It is quite time consuming
It can be quite fiddly to the unitiated.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
- Round nose jewelley pliers
- Wire cutters
- Millinery wire or coated copper wire which is more malleable although more expensive
- Thicker gauge millinery wire for headband, thiner gague wire for the main part of the hat attached to the head band, fine jewellery wire for joining ends of thicker gauge wire together.
- Elastic to attach to ends of headband.
- Bias binding, ribbon up to one cm wide or floristry tape to cover the wire frame
- Fabric and trimming in accordance with the design.
DESCRIPTION OF METHOD - Making a wire frame head band
Measure between the ears where headband would go - on most people this is about 12".
To calculate the amount of wire required multiply the above measurement by 2 and add 1" for it to turn back on itself and 2" for overlap of the wire ends. For example given a measurement of 12", multiply 12 X 2 + 1" (or more if head band is quite wide) + 2" = 27" total
Tip: Can place cling film on dolly head and draw on shape, can trace off a template on pattern drafting paper from this. If design symmetrical ensure that template is "trued" - template can later be used to form wire over and can use it to cut a pattern piece with narrow seam allowances, if headband is to be covered in fabric.
Cut off required length of THICKER gauge wire using wire cutters.
Ensure that kinks etc are removed from the wire before attempting to hand form it to desired shape.
Form desired shape (may use template for a more accurate result)
Overlap ends by 1" and attach using either button hole thread or thin jewelley wire . Place jewellery wire exactly midway where ends overlap twist in middle before twisting one end of it one way to the end of the overlap that side, the same process is repeated for the other side except it is twisted the opposite way. This ensures the ends of the thicker gauge wire are securely attached.
Tip: Put join where trim can be positioned over it, otherwise locate it CB
Medium gauge wire can then be used to form "strats" if required - these can be decorative or functional.
Tip: If strats are to be of equal lengths mark the required length on millinery wire with some excess both ends which will be twisted to fasten it in position.
Once the frame is as desired, it can then be covered in either bias cut fabric, floristry tape or ribbon. Fine white velvet ribbon great for wedding head pieces. This can be twisted around the frame neatly or thin bias cut piping can be used though which the wire is threaded through.
HOW MY FIRST ATTEMPT WENT IN CLASS and what I would like to try next
I found it surprisingly difficult to make the frame symmetrical - will definately use template idea next time.
Will also try 0.6 mm copper jewellery wire which may be more easy to straighten and manipulate.
I also found joining it difficult - would be easier to have it in a vice on a work-bench ideally. Could possibly try securing the ends with floristry tape or strong electrical tape to initially hold it in position before using thin Jewellery wire or button hole thread to secure ends.
I would like to try to make a frame and use a piped finish - as I think this will give a neater finish and can made of the same fabric used to make the trim.
